Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Inspiration - Week #12

In this week's grande box:  Summer squash (yellow and zucchini), fresh basil, tomatoes, corn, watermelon, broccoli, purple beans (they turn green when cooked), peppers (2 hot, one sweet)

I had a great time last Friday afternoon at the Ridgedale library drop site.  It was a pleasure to meet some of you in person and hear how you are doing with your CSA challenges.  When someone tells me that they tried eggplant for the first time and my recipe worked for them, I feel like I hit a home run.  Thanks to those of you who were able to take the extra time to say hello.

You will be able to make lots of special - but easy -  meals this week with the items in your boxes.   If you don't have any onion or garlic around the house, you will need to get some.  Some potatoes too if you decide to try the Salade Nicoise.    Have you checked your olive oil supply lately?   You don't want to run out just when you need to make a vinaigrette. 

Before we get to menu ideas and recipes for this week - a few projects to consider. 

DEALING WITH THE BASIL  You will probably have a nice bunch of fresh basil in your box.   I am planning on turning some of mine into pesto tonight.  I will use some fresh in a saute and a zucchini salad and add the rest to a vinaigrette.   Basil is pretty perishable, as you may have learned the hard way.  Avoid procrastination.  This project really goes fast if you have a food processor.    And while you are at it, make a simple vinaigrette with oil, vinegar, a little Dijon mustard, salt, pepper and some finely sliced basil.  Maybe just a teaspoon of honey, too.  The dressing will keep well and be very nice on a simple tomato salad. You can use the same food processor you used to make the pesto.  Two projects and you only need to wash the processor once!  (Pesto recipe - see blog post for June 23)

DEALING WITH THE CUCUMBERS.  I will be telling you all about how to make refrigerator bread and butter pickles in my Hands On post on Thursday.  The cukes should be just fine in the refrigerator until then.  If you don't like refrigerator pickles all that much, here are several very nice cucumber recipe ideas.  http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/08/13/cool-summer-cucumber-dishes/

CANNING TOMATOES ON HOLD -  I am NOT going to talk about canning tomatoes this week, like I promised I would.  (sorry) I think it would be better if I waited until next week, for lots of reasons.  But don't worry - I will get to it.  Tomato season is not over yet.

TOO MUCH BROCCOLI? - I have to say that the amount of broccoli in my grande box was quite impressive.  If you just can't deal with all your broccoli -- then blanch some and freeze it for later.  It will take only a few minutes.   Don't wait too long to decide.  You want to freeze fresh broccoli, not tired or pathetic broccoli.

Meal ideas for this week (recipes below for items marked with an asterisk)

More Than a Hot Dish
Minnesota Summer Saute with pasta*; Chilled watermelon

Ooh la la 
Classic French Salade Nicoise with basil vinaigrette* (Julia Child's version with a few comments from yours truly) ; French bread; Grapes or summer soft fruit like peach or nectarine
There are only a few times a year when tomatoes and green (or purple that will turn green when you cook them) beans are fresh and in season.  For me - that means Salade Nicoise.  Use nice plates and cloth napkins.  Have a glass of wine.  Pretend you are in Provence.  You will feel refreshed.

Stir Fry of the Week
Broccoli with oyster sauce*, rice; Melon slushie*

Lazy Sunday Brunch
Broccoli quiche; Broiled tomato halves (spread a little pesto on half tomatoes - broil til bubbly); Cornbread (add a cup of cooked corn kernels if you have some extra corn around)  See July 3 post for
cornbread recipe.

Meat and Three (Corn, Zucchini, Melon)
Prepare your meat or protein of choice - even a ham sandwich if that suits you.  Or a creamy cucumber salad with cottage cheese and yogurt (see the link above in the cucumber paragraph)  Serve with corn on the cob, zucchini ribbon salad* and cold melon for dessert.

RECIPES

Summer Saute with Pasta
Bring pasta water to a boil and cook the pasta while you are working on the vegetables. 
Saute the following in olive oil: onion or garlic; summer squash, cut into little sticks (batons if you want to be swanky); sweet bell pepper (diced or sliced); corn kernels.  Stir in a spoonful or two of pesto if you have it or else just add a generous handful of sliced basil.  Cover for a few minutes until all vegetables are soft.  Add a little pasta cooking water if too dry.  Serve over cooked pasta (linguine is nice)

Salade Nicoise
This version from Julia Child is authentic.   If you cannot abide anchovies, leave them out.  Plain vinaigrette is called for but I think basil vinaigrette would be excellent.  Or use plain and snip some fresh basil over the salad.  I like to make individual servings of the salad - or you can make one big salad for sharing if you can count on your fellow eaters to be good at sharing.  There is a little prep time involved - cooking the potatoes, the beans, washing the lettuce - but it comes together quickly.  You can even prep the veggies ahead.  You can use any type of lettuce, though the butter lettuce is very nice.  By all means try to find the special small French Nicoise olives.  (As a Fillmore County girl I can admit that I am a bit envious of those of you who can find Nicoise olives within 40 miles of your home.  But then I only have one stoplight in my county and no traffic, so I guess that almost makes up for olive deficits.)
http://www.ochef.com/r189.htm

Broccoli with oyster sauce
This is just a simple stir fry, using oyster sauce in addition to soy sauce.  Oyster sauce can be found in Asian groceries and many "mainstream" groceries.  The link below will bring you to a good version of this popular dish.  You could add mushrooms or meat - beef is especially nice - or peppers.  http://find.myrecipes.com/recipes/recipefinder.dyn?action=displayRecipe&recipe_id=226240

Melon slushie
This is my invention -- try it and see what you think.  Freeze chunks of melon - about two cups per serving.  Make a simple sugar syrup (1 cup sugar to 2 cups water) by heating sugar and water and boiling about a minute.  When syrup is cool, add juice and grated rind from one or two limes or lemons or mixture of the two.  Add a little fresh mint too if you have some.  Put frozen melon and syrup into a blender - about 2 cups melon to 1/2 cup syrup.  Add a few extra ice cubes if desired.  Blend until drink is slushy.  Serve.  (You could add sparkling water or gingerale if you want a carbonated drink.)

Zucchini ribbon salad
This is a fun way to use a lot of raw zucchini.  I usually find raw zucchini boring.  But something about shaving the zucchini into thin slices (with a peeler) really makes a difference. I used hazelnuts instead of the pine nuts because that is what I had on hand.  You could use walnuts too.   I didn't have any Parmesan, so I used some blue cheese.  Feta would be excellent, as well.  The fresh lemon juice is important in this salad.   http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Shaved-Zucchini-Salad-with-Parmesan-Pine-Nuts-360251

Broccoli Quiche
There are quiche recipes all over the internet and in many cookbooks.  All you really need to do is blanch cut up broccoli until just tender and drain well.  Put the broccoli in the bottom of an unbaked pie crust along with a cup or two of grated cheddar cheese.   Maybe add a little grated onion or chopped and drained tomatoes.  Add some diced ham or cooked sausage if you have some and want a heartier dish.  Make a custard with milk and egg - 4 eggs and 1 1/2 cups of milk. Or 5 eggs and 2 cups milk if you are using a large pie pan or baking dish.   Lowfat milk is fine but whole milk adds a richer taste and texture.  Add 1 t.  of salt and some pepper to the egg mixture and  pour over cheese and vegetables.  Bake about about 375 degrees until firm in the middle - about 30 minutes.  You could make this in a buttered baking dish without a crust - here in Fillmore County we just call this "egg bake".  If you do it this way I would turn oven down to 350 degrees.

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Tried and True - Salsa

Not so humid today -  I am so grateful.  Consider making some fresh salsa today.  It won't even heat up your kitchen.  This dish requires no cooking (unless you use fresh corn and then you do need to cook it a few minutes before you cut the kernels off the cob.)

I spent a lovely three hours yesterday at the Ridgedale Library drop site for Featherstone Farm.  It was great to meet some shareholders in person and chat a bit.  I always learn a lot when I have these opportunities for face time.  Blogs and the internet can be wonderful, but there is no substitute for direct human contact.  One of my take home messages was that many of you find this blog useful, which makes me very happy.   It totally makes my day when somebody tells me they cooked eggplant for the first time and they liked it and my recipe worked for them.

I don't know about you, but I still haven't given up on the idea of helping to make the world a better place.  It is kind of a Lutheran curse.  There are a countless ways to make a difference and I have tried a lot of them - peace marching,  serving in elected office, reading to a child, listening to a friend, cleaning a bathroom.  Increasing the vegetable literacy rate is right up there.  Maybe as important as reforming our health insurance system.  Really.  If more people spent more time growing, cooking or eating real, healthy food together maybe we wouldn't be spending almost 18% of our GNP on medical care.   So it is an honor to be of assistance to you -  the vanguard of cooks who have the audacity to cook real food in their own kitchens, day in and day out.

Okay it is a lot of hand chopping but worth it.
Okay - enough soap box.  You are waiting to learn about salsa.  I brought some salsa with me to Ridgedale for sampling.  It was pretty popular, unless people were just being nice.  I actually measured the ingredients when I made it, so I could tell you how I did it.  Here is my mise en place set up for today's recipe. (note - I doubled it - so the amounts look pretty big)

I usually work without a net and make salsa without a recipe.  I am guided by five one syllable salsa concepts - spice, heat, acid, base and bite (this makes an acronym - SHABB.)  Here are some examples of each component:
1. Spice - salt, sugar or honey, fresh cilantro, basil, cumin or mint
2.  Heat - chopped hot peppers such as jalapeno, serrano, or chipotle (smoked jalapenos).  There are many varieties of hot peppers that can be used in salsa - either in fresh, roasted, dried or smoked form.)
With peppers, use caution.  The heat is in the seeds.  De-seed, mince flesh (not words), and don't add seeds unless you want more heat.  Some peppers are so hot you need to be careful about handling them.  Some people even use gloves.  For sure don't touch your eyes if you have been cutting up hot peppers.
3.  Acid - I like red wine vinegar for salsa.  Fresh lemon or lime juice or other types of vinegars are great too.  You might consider rice vinegar if you want a milder effect and if you are going for an Asian taste.
4.  Base - This is where fresh fruits and vegetables come in.  You can use tomatoes, tomatillos, corn, mango, melon, cucumber, sweet peppers or beans (the dried kind, not green beans).
5.  Bite -  This category covers onions, garlic or scallions - it is always nice to have some member of the allium family in your salsa.  Red onions are especially good with some salsas.  Sweet onions are great with mangos, pineapple or melons.

Once you have made salsa several times using a recipe, you will understand more about how the SHABB principles operate.  You will develop your own tastes and preferences.  You will be able to experiment and take advantage of whatever is fresh and in season and maybe work without a net, like me - at least when it comes to salsa.

Height of summer salsa
There are many ways to use this salsa other than with chips.  Don't hold back - it is full of nutrition and very low in calories.  Eat it within a week or freeze.  Best eaten fresh.
Serve as an accompaniment to quesadillas (grilled tortilla sandwiches made with cheese, meat or beans).
Make huevos rancheros - warmed corn tortillas, fried eggs, maybe some refried beans, salsa.  Sour cream is pretty great too if you can do the calories.
Serve plain in a little dish -  as a side salad with grilled meats or vegetables.
Make a taco salad - toss salsa together with tortilla chips, lettuce, a little extra meat or beans.  Serve in bowls garnished with a little crema - Mexican style sour cream.  Creme fraiche or even plain yogurt would work too.

Ingredients - mix all together in a large bowl.  I find that no salt is necessary in this recipe. It has a hint of natural sweetness - I think from the sweet corn.
4 cups diced fresh tomatoes (do this by hand.  Put the cut tomatoes in a strainer or colander to drain for about half an hour - while you are preparing the other ingredients.  Drink the tomato water or save for soup.  If you have tomatillos - you can substitute for up to half the tomatoes.
1 t. minced fresh garlic
3/4 cup chopped onion (I did this in the food processor to save time - don't over process - you want pieces not mush)
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro (you can add this to the onion and process together) (Note on cilantro.  This is the herb that looks a little like parsley but tastes a lot different.  Most people love it or hate it.  I highly recommend using it in salsa if you can find it.  Over time you will come to appreciate its virtues and it will add flair and authenticity to your salsa.  If you decide you really do hate it, that it ok.  Use some cumin or parsley in your salsa.) 
1/2 cup chopped cucumber (peeled and seeded)
1 cup black beans, canned or home cooked
1 1/2 cups cooked corn kernels (fresh, frozen or canned.  Fresh is best)
2 T. finely minced jalapeno peppers (2 regular sized peppers)
1/4 cup red wine vinegar (If you have fresh lime or lemon juice you can use half juice and half vinegar)  Add a bit more vinegar if you think the salsa needs it.


FOOD PRESERVATION NEWS FLASH - due to popular demand, I will begin a conversation next week about canning tomatoes.  And if you don't live too far from Winona and want to brush up on your canning chops - sign up for this class.  I did and I will tell you all about it.
University of MN Extension, Winona will host a food preservation class on Tuesday, Aug. 24, 2-5 pm at the Extension office, lower level Winona County Government Building, 202 W Third Street. General class for the beginner and expert on safe preservation procedures, whether you can, freeze, dry, pickle, jelly, etc. Cost is $10. For market gardeners and small farm owners, a free marketing class with Extension Educator Kari Foord will follow at 5:30-7 p.m.  Pre-register for either or both classes by Aug. 20. Call (507) 457-6440. Enrollment limited to 30. Bring your pressure canner gauge if you want it tested. 

Friday, August 13, 2010

Focus: BOK CHOY (Brassica Rapa var. Chinensis)

Bok choy is a delicately flavored Asian cabbage, native to China, where it has been eaten for over 6,000 years!    It is sometimes known by names such as Chinese cabbage, pac choi, bok choi or bak choy - and so people can get confused over the many varieties and names.   Some people refer to it as Chinese chard.  Both the stems and the leaves are edible and you can use bok choy in any recipe calling for Swiss chard.  Very small bunches are called baby bok choy and may be cooked whole or cut in half - braised, steamed or grilled.   Sometimes you will find bunches with small edible broccoli-like florets called flowering bok choy. 

Bok Choy is very commonly found on Asian restaurant menus.  It is still considered a "specialty vegetable"  but that is changing as more and more American households discover its charms.   It has a mild and sweet taste,  is very nutritious and can be eaten either raw or cooked.  It can be used in stir fries or added to soup - allow about 1/2 pound per serving because it cooks down considerably.  The stalks can be used like celery.

Here are ten ideas for how to use Bok Choy from the Fruits and Veggies More Matters website (our federal tax dollars at work)  http://www.fruitsandveggiesmorematters.org/?page_id=7494

Nutrition
One cup of raw chopped or sliced bok choy has only 10 calories.  It also has one gram of protein, two grams of carbohydrates and one gram of dietary fiber.   One cup contains 50% of the daily requirement of vitamin A, 50% of vitamin C and 7% for calcium.  Like most fresh vegetables - it is very low in sodium - 45 mg per cup.

Storage and cleaning
Store your bok choy in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator up to a week.  Don't wash it until ready to use.  To wash regular sized bok choy- separate each stem and rinse well. Make sure the stalks are clean, because dirt and grit can accumulate near the bottom insides of the stalks.  Just rub under running water or if the dirt is stubborn, use a soft vegetable brush to clean the stalk.    

Preparation
Cut the leaves from the stalks or ribs.  Slice stalks into pieces on the diagonal - usually into 1/2 to 1 inch slices.   Cut leaves into strips - about one inch wide.  The leaves will cook more quickly than the stalks.  The smaller the slices, the quicker they cook.   Don't overcook bok choy - it will get watery.   Half inch slices of stalk, covered and boiled in a small amount of liquid, will cook in 4 minutes.  One inch slices of leaves will cook in about two minutes.  If steamed, stalks will cook in 6 minutes and leaves in 4 minutes.  Two cups of raw sliced leaves will yield about 1/2 cup cooked greens.  When I stir fried a medium bunch - 4 cups sliced stalks and 4 lightly packed cups of strips of leaves- I ended up with 3 cups cooked vegetable - about six servings.


Serving suggestions (These come from the Featherstone Farm Cookbook - Tastes from Valley to Bluff)
Swirl leaves and stems into stir fries

Use tender stalks raw with dip or spread with peanut butter as you would with celery

Wilt in a salad as you would spinach, with warm bacon dressing

Braise or stir fry with mushrooms - the flavors combine well

Thinly slice or shred raw bok choy for a crunchy Asian salad with ramen noodles (use a sesame-ginger-soy vinaigrette)

RECIPES
Basic stir fried bok choy (without mushrooms)
Stir-fried bok choy with mushrooms (adapted from the Joy of Cooking)
Pour 1/2 cup boiling water over 6 dried black or shitake mushrooms.  Stir and let soak about 30 minutes.  Strain the soaking water and save.  Cut the softened mushrooms into 1/4 inch slices.
Cut 1 1/2 to 2 pounds bok choy - stalks and leaves -  into one inch pieces.  Keep stalks and leaves separate.
Warm in a small saucepan: 1 cup chicken stock, 1 T. soy sauce, 1/2 t. sugar
Mix in a small bowl: 2 T. mushroom soaking water, 2 t. cornstarch, 1/2 t. ground white pepper, 1 T. Shaoxing wine (this is a Chinese cooking wine and worth having around your kitchen.  It is easily found in Asian markets.  Joy of Cooking says you can substitute 1 T Scotch Whiskey.  Sherry would do too.)
Heat 2-3 T. peanut or other oil in a wok or large skillet.  Cook mushrooms and bok choy stems about four minutes over high heat, stirring often.  Add leaves and chicken broth mixture.  Cover and steam about 2 minutes.  Uncover.  Quickly stir in the cornstarch mixture, bring to a boil to thicken.  Add 2 t. toasted sesame oil.  Serve.
(variation - add one teaspooon each of minced garlic and ginger to the bok choy stems when stir-frying.)

Japanese noodles, tofu and bok choy
This is a good recipe that can be found at Epicurious.com.  Good for summer - not too heavy.  While you are there you can check out other bok choy recipes.  http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Japanese-Noodles-with-Bok-Choy-and-Tofu-103624

Simple steamed bok choy
Steam about a pound of bok choy until tender - about 5 minutes.  (You can slice stalks and leaves before steaming or steam whole.)  Cool.  Mix with a simple marinade of 1 T. soy sauce, 1 T. sesame oil, 1 T. rice vinegar and 1 t. sugar.  Garnish with toasted sesame seeds.  Serve as a side dish with noodles or rice.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Hands On - Freezing sweet corn

(Special message to all of you who pick up your boxes at the Ridgedale Library.  I will be at your drop site from 2-5 this Friday.   I look forward to meeting you - don't be shy about introducing yourself and asking some questions or making requests for the blog.)

One good thing about all the rain, heat and humidity in Southeast Minnesota this year is the bountiful sweet corn crop.  Our Featherstone CSA sweet corn has been most delectable.  We have restrained ourselves from eating it all so we can freeze some for winter. 

I don't know yet what crops will be available this year for preservation shares - but I hope sweet corn is among them.  And if for some reason Featherstone Farm is not able to meet your winter sweet corn needs, by all means find another source and stock up your freezer with summer gold.  This is great practice for winter provisioning and learning how to feed yourself year round using local foods.

I have friends and neighbors who make freezing corn an annual family event.  Many hands make light work and in a few hours you can have many many quarts of corn to share and freeze. Compared to canning tomatoes (which involves lots of boiling water for long periods) - freezing corn is a breeze.  You just need some basic equipment, corn, freezer bags and a labeling pen.

6 large ears of corn will yield just about 6 cups of corn- including the "creamy" part

Equipment
large pot for boiling corn
tongs
large bowl for ice water for cooling corn
large cutting board
bowl to hold cut corn
sharp paring knife
ordinary table knife
spoon or rubber scraper 
canning funnel (makes it easier to put corn in freezer bags)
freezer bags in desired size
container to hold bag upright while you are filling it
scraper or other tool to move corn from board to bowl

Step One - cook and cool the corn
Bring a large pot of water - at least one gallon -  to a full boil.  (Shuck the corn while water heats.  Please please save the husks for composting)

Add ears of corn to boiling water.  Boil, partly covered, for five minutes.  Remove ears with tongs and put in ice water to cool.


Step Two - cut the corn off the cob
I do this in two steps.  First I cut off the rows of kernels - about 3/4 of each kernel.  Then, using the dull edge of a table knife I scrape off the "creamy part" which remains on the cob.   I usually mix in the creamy part of the corn when I freeze it.  But there may be times you want just the whole kernels.  For example, if you are using corn in fresh salsa it is nice to have just the firm part of the kernels.   Save the creamy part for chowders or corn pudding or cornbread.
Don't forget to compost the cobs!

Step Three - bag and label the corn and put it in the freezer.

Step Four -  Some night in January when the wind is howling and the snow is blowing, remove a bag of corn from your freezer.  Cook it up with a little butter and salt and pepper.  Eat it with a pork chop,  mashed potatoes and pickled beets.   Be proud of yourself for working hard to freeze your own corn.

Dig In - Soy Sauce

Soy sauce was invented by the Chinese over 2,500 years ago.  It is eaten every day by hundreds of millions - maybe billions - of people.  There are different versions made in China, Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Korea -- and Wisconsin (more on that later).   Something that has been this popular for this long deserves to be used at least occasionally in your kitchen.  

I am going to talk a bit in this post about how soy sauce is made, some different kinds of soy sauce and how to choose a soy sauce.    I also will include recipes for cherry tomatoes with soy sauce dressing and wonton soup with bok choy and soy sauce - since cherry tomatoes and bok choy are in your CSA boxes this week.

Not all soy sauce is alike
Like wine or olive oil, soy sauce is a complex substance.  Soy sauce, a fermented food product, exists in a great variety of flavors, colors, consistency, saltiness and fragrance.  These characteristics are due to differences in both ingredients and production methods.  For example. some soy sauce has no wheat and some may be as much as half wheat.  More wheat means more sweetness.  Some is aged for three days (avoid this kind) and some is aged for six years.  Some soy sauce is best suited to cooking and some to being used uncooked for dipping,  sauces or marinades.

How is soy sauce made?
Traditionally, soybeans or soybean meal was mixed with roasted grain to form a mash.  The mash is inoculated with a culture of special microbes.  Salt and water is added and the mash placed in uncovered giant earthenware urns, where it would ferment in the sun. I am sure there is still artisanal soy sauce still being made this way somewhere. 

Most modern soy sauce is made in industrial facilities, but using the same basic traditional fermentation process.   It takes time and quality ingredients to make good soy sauce.  Some say that making a fine soy sauce requires as much art and skill as making a fine wine.

Japanese soy sauce
Soy sauce is an all purpose seasoning in Japanese cuisine.   Even bigger than ketchup or salsa in America.   It is called shoyu and is made from soybeans, wheat or barley, salt and water (maybe malt).  There are as many as five kinds of shoyu in Japan - they are not interchangeable.  Over 80% of the soy sauce used and produced in Japan is "koikuchi" - it contains equal amounts of wheat and soy and is generally referred to as simply shoyu, since it is the most common.   For an excellent discussion of the different types of Japanese shoyu - including tamari -  see http://www.kikkoman.com/foodforum/thejapanesetable/25.shtml

Kikkoman is one of the largest producers of Japanese style soy sauce and has been importing shoyu to the U.S. since the mid 1800's.  Since 1972, Kikkoman has been making Japanese style shoyu right next door in Walworth, Wisconsin (near Janesville).  It is nice to know that I can buy Kikkoman and still "buy local" - if you consider Wisconsin local.  I do. 

Tamari is made with very little wheat (it can be found wheat free for those who are intolerant to gluten).  This type of soy sauce, because of its small proportion of grain, is probably most similar to the original soy sauce introduced into Japan from China.

Chinese soy sauce
There are two basic types of Chinese soy sauce - light or "thin" soy (sang zul) or black or dark soy (low zul).  The latter is darker, thicker, richer in color and slightly sweeter in taste.  It is aged longer than thin soy and has some added molasses for sweetness.  It is less salty than thin soy and is commonly used during cooking.
Light soy (also sometimes called "superior soy") is saltier, lighter in color and some say has the best flavor.  It is from the first "pressing" of the soybeans.

Fake soy sauce
I was not surprised to learn that enterprising food scientists have figured out a way to use hydrolyzed vegetable protein, corn syrup and caramel coloring to come up with what I consider fake soy sauce.  It only ages three days, is cheaper and has a longer shelf life.  LaChoy is an example of this kind of soy sauce.  I encourage you to consider a different brand that uses the traditional method of fermenting soybeans and grain.

What is the best kind of soy sauce to buy?
You can see what Cook's Illustrated had to say in 2007 at this web site:  http://www.cooksillustrated.com/tastetests/overview.asp?docid=10119  They evaluated 12 different kinds, including both lighter, sweeter Japanese style soy sauce and the stronger Chinese style.  The winners? For cooking: Lee Kum Kee Tabletop Soy Sauce  For dipping: Ohsawa Nama Shoyu Organic Unpasteurized Soy Sauce

For most purposes, I have been pretty happy with my basic Japanese style shoyu made by Kikkoman in Wisconsin.   For some recipes when a darker Chinese style soy sauce is called for, I use Kimlan brand.  I have not settled on a particular tamari brand and really need to think about when and how I want to use tamari as opposed to "regular" shoyu.  I think I am going to find some wheat free tamari for my gluten intolerant daughter in law.

One plus for Kikkoman - they make an organic version of basic shoyu -- for those who want certified organic soy sauce.


Cooking with soy sauce
Sometimes the soy sauce flavors "cook out" during cooking.  I often add soy sauce near the end of the cooking process for that reason.

Cherry tomato salad with soy sauce
(from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman)
Dressing: 2 T soy sauce (plus more to taste); 2 t. dark sesame oil; pinch of sugar; 4 cups cherry tomatoes, cut in half; 1/2 cup whole basil leaves, preferably Thai basil; freshly ground pepper
Combine all in a bowl, stirring gently to coat tomatoes with dressing.
Let stand at room temperature at least 15 minutes before serving.

Wonton soup with bok choy and soy sauce
This straightforward recipe is from the Kikkoman web site.  http://www.kikkomanusa.com/homecooks/recipes/recipedetail.php?rd=2018

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Inspiration - Week #11

In this week's grande box:  sweet corn, tomatoes (yellow pear, red cherry, big and small slicers,  Roma type), zucchini, cucumber (slicers), bok choy, honeydew melon, cilantro, eggplant, leaf lettuce

Corn and tomato season is truly upon us. Embrace it.  I hope you and yours lap up every little drop of red and golden juice and flesh and swallow every toothsome corn kernel.  Compost the cobs and any tomato skins and seeds that you don't eat.  Help build soil somewhere.  It is always a good idea.

I am again recommending BLT's and corn as a menu idea.  Just like last week.  I hope that is not a problem for you.  I personally think that meal repetition is acceptable.  It is comforting.  It is relaxing.  And tell the truth now - how many times has your family had pizza three or four or more weeks in a row?  Or macaroni and cheese?  Or hamburgers or hot dogs?  Or carry out roasted or fried chicken?  And nobody minds.  In fact, most people like to eat the same things over and over. When it comes to food,  most of us are definitely creatures of habit. (Why do you think Saturday morning TV is so full of food commercials aimed at children?)

LEFTOVERS - a challenge
Have you noticed the trend of increasing numbers of retail stores that specialize in "gently used, previously owned, repurposed, reconditioned, vintage (that means old), or recycled" clothing, furniture or household goods?  Buying new is so 20th century.

So why can't we get more excited about cooking our food twice?   The word "leftover" has such a bad connotation.  I think this needs to change.  Until I coin a better word I think I will try "repurposed".  As in "We had some great fried rice last night with some repurposed chicken that we roasted three days ago."

This is all about attitude.   Do not furtively or apologetically heat up leftovers.  Repurpose them.  Think of the leftovers as a platform upon which you will build a whole new taste sensation!  With food just sitting around your kitchen!  You are an artiste!  An innovator!  An imagineer!

If I can do it so can you.  Remember the recipe for roasted cherry tomatoes from last week's Inspiration post?  Well, we still had about a cup of roasted garlic and tomatoes in the refrigerator last night and I needed a meal for three.  So  I repurposed the tomatoes and garlic.  I added about a cup of fresh chopped tomatoes (which also happened to be "leftovers"), a tablespoon or so of olive oil, 1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh basil and a small amount of salami, sliced into thin strips.  Stirred it all together and voila -- enough pasta sauce for three servings.  We each had a cup of gazpacho for a starter, a simple ear of boiled corn and then the pasta with roasted cherry tomato sauce.    I saved the corn boiling water for cooking the spaghetti, so that was repurposed too. 

See how this works?    I just know you have a cup or two of this or that sitting in your refrigerator - waiting for you to breathe new life into it.  Sometimes you don't need to change the dish itself.  You just need a different context.  Maybe a frittata?  And don't forget soup -- many foods can be repurposed that way.  Wine, broth, perhaps a blender?  Add a little grated cheese and homemade croutons and no one will even know they are eating (sshhhh) leftovers.

Menu ideas for this week (items marked with an asterisk have recipes below)

BLT's Again.   BLT; corn on the cob; cucumber salad.  Since you have fabulous slicing tomatoes AND leaf lettuce in your box - then by all means eat some more BLT's.  You could even get creative.  How about a CLT?  (cheese, lettuce, tomato)  Or a HLT? (hummus, lettuce and tomato)  Or even a TLT?  (turkey, lettuce and tomato)  Or a CBLT?  (Canadian bacon, lettuce and tomato)  Maybe add some fresh dill or cilantro to plain mayonnaise.   Or add a generous dollop of caramelized onions.   Try different kinds of breads.  Toasted, of course.

Summer veggie cooperation.  Cold cucumber yogurt soup (make a double batch - enough for two meals); Mediterranean style vegetable medley* on rice or polenta; sliced honeydew melon.  (If you make rice - make a double recipe so you can reheat it for stir fry another night)

Stir fry of the week.  Chicken (or other favorite protein) and Bok Choy Stir Fry with rice  (Note - To prepare the bok choy, first wash and shake dry - separate leaves to get at any dirt hiding on the lower inside stalks.  Separate stalks and cut diagonally into 1/4 inch slices.  Slice the leaves into strips.  Add the stalks first.  Add the leaves near the end of cooking time - they will cook quickly.  That great big bunch of bok choy in your box will cook right down - don't be afraid to use it all.  Use plenty of fresh ginger and garlic in the stir fry.  Good quality soy sauce and a bit of toasted sesame oil will add good flavor.  I will be talking more about soy sauce tomorrow and about bok choy on Friday.)

If you end up with more cooked bok choy than you can eat - Repurpose it!!  Add some chicken broth and cooked rice or wheat noodles, some chili paste and lime and maybe some fresh bean sprouts and basil or mint and you will have a whole new meal.

Ole.  Refried bean and cheese burritos or tacos or enchiladas,  fresh corn-tomato salsa*; sliced honeydew melon

Kabob Night.  Marinate some cubes of meat in a little oil, garlic and vinegar and lemon juice - overnight or a few hours at room temperature.  Thread on skewers with 2 or 3 inch chunks of corn on the cob, chunks of zucchini and cherry or pear tomatoes.  Chunks of onion are good too. Grill until done over medium coals or flame.  Serve with cold cucumber yogurt soup and rice, barley or bulgar (wheat) pilaf.

RECIPES

Mediterranean style vegetable medley - serves about 6, with rice.  Proportions of vegetables may be varied according to taste or availability.
Ingredients
2 - 3 cups tomatoes, 1-2 cups zucchini squash, 1 cup onion, 1- 2 cups eggplant, 2-3 t. minced fresh garlic, 2 cups cooked or canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed, parsley, salt and pepper to taste.  (add fresh basil or a spoonful or two of basil pesto if you have it.  If not, some dried Greek oregano would be good.)

Chop fresh vegetables into uniform medium sized chunks (no need to peel). Saute onion, eggplant, squash and garlic in about 1/4 cup olive oil until softened.  Add tomatoes and chickpeas.  Simmer covered in oven (350 degrees) or on top of stove until vegetables are very tender - about 1 hour. Add fresh parsley, salt and pepper to taste.   Can be served hot or at room temperature.  Even better served next day. Garnish with feta cheese if desired.

Fresh corn tomato salsa
Ingredients (amount and size of each to be decided by cook - according to taste and availability)
Chopped fresh tomatoes (squeeze out most of juice and seeds - save for soup)
Chopped onion
Chopped cucumber, peeled and seeded (optional)
Chopped fresh cilantro - about 1/2 cup per 2 cups vegetables
Finely minced jalapeno pepper - more or less depending on desired heat intensity)
Corn kernels (Boil or steam ears of corn, cut off kernels when corn is cool)
Fresh minced garlic (about 1 t. per two cups of vegetables)
Red wine vinegar, lime juice or lemon juice - about 1/4 cup per two cups of vegetables
Salt to taste
















Saturday, August 7, 2010

Tried and True - Gazpacho

Gazpacho is a cold soup - a liquid salad really - almost always tomato based. A gift to us from the Spanish cuisine. Like Italian minestrone, it is one of those recipes that seems to have infinite variations. That is certainly okay and I encourage you to be creative with your gazpacho. However, in cooking as well as music, before you start to riff, some classical grounding can be very helpful. It is dangerous to just go to Allrecipes.com and pick out the first gazpacho recipe you see. No guarantee it is even close to the "real thing".
Today's Gazpacho recipe is based on my own survey of the literature and personal preference. Just remember, there is no registration for gazpacho at the U.S. patent office. There is no gazpacho certification and licensing board.

The All New All Purpose Joy of Cooking (1997) confirms this - saying "there are numerous varieties of gazpacho in Spain--a white one from Malaga, made with garlic, bread and almonds and garnished with green grapes; a cumin-scented one from Granada; even a stewlike game-filled version from Alicante. The most familiar version is this one--an Andalusian "pureed salad" of summer vegetables. Classic gazpachos are thickened with bread, although many contemporary recipes, like this one, omit it."

The recipe below is my version of classic gazpacho.  It is a good starting point - and maybe it will suit you.  Or you can develop your own spin, if you wish. Then you can write it down on index cards and pass the recipe on.  Call it "Bob's Gazpacho". (Unless your name is Jane. Then call it "Jane's Gazpacho".)

Your family and friends can either follow your recipe slavishly or create their own adaptations. Some of them may make this soup a little differently each time. I do.  I think it is kind of like old time folk music. Old tunes are handed down for many generations. The tunes stay the same, but every new musician develops their own personal rendition. Which maybe is a little different each time they play it.

Some basic things to know about classic Gazpacho are that it must be served ice cold, it almost always includes tomatoes and olive oil and all the vegetables in it are raw.

Andalusian Style Gazpacho
Makes about a half gallon, or 8 cups.

Ingredients
1 cup tomato juice (can use a puree from fresh tomatoes or use home or commercially prepared tomato juice)
This is what one pound of tomatoes looks like.
2 pounds fresh tomatoes (4 cups coarsely chopped - ok to use skins and seeds.  If desired, put through a food mill to remove skins and seeds)
1/4 pound onion (1 cup coarsely chopped)
1/2 pound peeled cucumber (1 cup chopped - no need to take out seeds)
1 t. minced fresh garlic
1/4 pound fresh bell pepper (1 cup coarsely chopped)
1/4 cup each - olive oil and vinegar (either red wine or sherry vinegar are good)
1/2 t. salt
1 minced jalapeno pepper (optional - or use more or less)

Place all ingredients in blender and blend until smooth.  You will probably have to do this in two batches.
Optional variation:  Add 2 cups cubes of stale bread to the vegetables - firm artisan country style white bread soaked in about 1 cup water first.
Garnishes - I like to add a little texture to this soup.  Chop (medium or fine) about 1/2 cup each of onion, cucumber and sweet pepper.  Mix together and add to soup as a garnish.  You can also add homemade croutons (bake bread with a little olive oil and garlic) as a garnish - especially if you decide not to thicken the soup with bread.

A note on herbs and spices -  I have seen gazpacho recipes call for parsley, dill, cumin, cayenne or tarragon.  If you have good tomatoes and fresh garlic and olive oil, I suggest you hold off on herbs and spices - at least at first.  Add later if you wish.  I have come to believe that just a little parsley is all that is needed.
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